Khardung La and the Nubra Valley

Day 4
12-8-08
Leh

We started a bit late and on top of that we took a wrong turn costing us a half an hr more!

Lesson learnt : Ask directions if you are not sure of your way. We were lucky to turn back after 15-20 minutes... otherwise who knows, we would have gone a long way before meeting a human being!

Anyways after going further, we got the proper directions from a group of villagers and were on the right track to Kardhung La.


We all knew that today we were going to the world's highest motorable pass and were prepared to face any climatic challenges. All the vehicles were stopped for checking in South Pullu 14 kms before the 'top'. We were told by the security personnel in south pullu that there had been heavy snowing the previous night and hence we may find it difficult to drive. Anyways after the checking was done we continued our journey.

Sanjay the Cowboy at South Pullu.



We stopped for a while in the Kardhungla Pass. There were many travellers on bikes as well as 4 wheelers and even bicycles. There was a sovenier shop selling Cups and T-Shirts and other items signifying the pass. We spent quite some time over there taking pictures and chatting with other travellers. Everyone were so excited, no one cared about the oxygen or altitude issue. Anyways we all were fine and started our onward journey with high spirits!


At the top of the world! (Kardhungla Pass)


After Kardhung La it is a descent to the Nubra Valley. On the way we cross North Pullu and Kardhung village before reaching Khalsar. At Khalsar, the road divides into two, one to panamic and another to diskit. Unfortunately the road from Khalsar to Panamic was undergoing some repair. Hence we had to travel almost 25 kms to Diskit and from there to Panamic. But the sights we enjoyed on our way was worth it!



We were welcomed by the caretaker of the hotel and the servants. After having coffee and snacks, we wanted to go to the Panamik hot water springs. Before starting, our host informed that we can see the Ladakhi cultural dance and song nearby if we book in advance. The performers charge 150/- per head for the cultural s and refreshments. We said 'Ok' and started towards the Panamik. However on reaching the spot we were disappointed to see the 'sulphur spring'! On the side of a hill, there was hot water oozing out and being collected in 2 tanks near by. from the tank water comes out through a small pipe and we have to sit under the pipe. thats all! Anyways we traveled so far and didnt want to miss it. So we sat under the pipe one by one and finished the hot water bath!

When we reached back it was raining heavily. Our host informed that the program will start late due to the rain. Anyways, after half an hr, the rain stopped and he took us to a place nearby. We were the only guests (I had thought it would be a local function with lot of people). After some time 2 more guests came in and we all sat waiting for the program to start. In the meanwhile, our host informed us that this was conducted by the local Ladakhi women as a way to earn their own income. So whenever tourists come to nearby hotels they invite them here. This way they are showcasing their art and also earning some money.

Soon the artists came and started their dance. They sung and danced themselves accompanied only by a pipe and drum in the background.



There was a surprise waiting for us in the end. One of the dancer came and gave each of us a cloth and when we were wondering what to do with that, we were asked to join them in the dance! After the usual initial hesitation one by one joined them and started shaking our legs on their music.


By the time we came out, the rain had stopped and we reached our hotel. The cook had prepared a wonderful dinner with a touch of Chinese and Ladakhi taste.

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