Mission Gangotri - Start...Action...Cut!
Day 1
16-5-09
Uttarkashi
It had been almost 2 hrs and we were still waiting for more passengers in Share Taxi; a Tata Sumo in Uttranchal's UttarKashi district. We were 4 and the driver informed us that he needs at least 9 or 10 passengers! Otherwise we could book the whole taxi for Rs 1200/- The bus fare was just 90/- per ticket and being 'Budget Travelers' we opted for the first option. We decided to wait unaware of the surprises or rather bad luck that awaited us for the next 4 days!
It all stared with Shankar's transfer to Chennai. It was all of a sudden and he realized he hasn't seen much of the north! So he wanted to do at least 2 trips before he left to south. We went to Renukaji in Himachal during the first week of May and after that trip we started looking for the next destination. Initially Dharmashala was the popular choice. However in the last moment, I suggested Gangotri! Varun was instantly hooked and we both convinced Shankar.
Due to the absence of many of our 'Brothers in Arms' we were only 3. Rahul had gone home, Prem was busy, Kishore was too busy! Vikas and Amit had other plans. We thought it would be better if we could rope in one more guy. Luckily Gokul was interested and he also joined the gang and we were 4 and good to go!
When we boarded the DDN JANSHTBDI to Haridwar on a friday afternoon, we just had a rough plan. I would rather call it a BAD/POOR plan trip and the price we 'paid' for our laziness was too high! The schedule prepared was as follows:
The expected budget for this trip was supposed to be around 2.5 K per head.
Sounds simple enough.. right? But alas! It wasn't meant to be that simple.
When we reached Haridwar at 8:00 pm, we got our first shock. You don't get a share taxi as easily as getting a share auto in the cities. Its your luck or you book a whole taxi for Rs 2600/- (Haridwar to Uttarkashi)
We decided we would first take a room, keep our luggage and then continue with our enquiry. After 10 min we got a decent AC room for 950/- rupees. (We could have found a more cheaper one, but then it was our first day and we badly needed a bath after the HOT train journey!) So we didn't mind the lavishness!
I was the last one to take bath and when I came out of the bathroom, the AC had failed and the owner of the hotel was checking it with a technician. I thought it would be fixed soon, but even after half an hr the repair work was still in progress. We had to go out for the enquiry and dinner. It was already 9:30 pm and I lost patience. I told the manager we will adjust with the cooler. At last he left.
We again asked around for a share taxi but didn't find any. In the end, we decided we will take the bus till UttarKashi and from there we will get a share taxi to Gangotri. After having dinner in the Haridwar Chottiwaala and 'Thandai' from a road side shop for 10 rupees, we retired.
We found the first bus to Uttarkashi and Gokul and Shankar soon joined us. We were among the first passengers and we took the comfortable seats and bought the tickets. The bus started at 5:30 AM and I soon forgot the greedy auto incident and thought every things going to be fine from now.
The bus reached Uttakkashi at 2 PM via Rishikesh, Chamba, Darasu (road divides from here to Gangotri and Yamunotri) and Dunda villages. The hill road was ok except for a few km where the ride was a bit bumpy. On the way, we decided that if no taxi is available then we will continue till Gangotri in the same bus (5 hrs by bus). We had to use the half an hr halt for checking out the taxi, availability of sleeping bags and tent and also for lunch!
AS soon as we reached UK, Shankar and me went to the taxi stand half a km from the bus stop. Taxis were available for 120/- rupees per seat. We saw a trekking operator's office near by and went to check the sleeping bags. He welcomed us and asked, "have you made the permits?"
"Permits..??? What permits???"
It was a real shock to me when I heard from him that we need to acquire permits for trekking from Gangotri to Gaumukh! I thought none of the blogs or sites informed me about this (Actually it was mentioned in many sites.. but we didn't see it)
He told me that everyday only 150 person will be allowed inside, thanks to all of us idiots who are causing global warming and doing harm to the earth and environment each day! He also informed me that the 150 permits for the next day is already over and we will get it only for next day! That means we have to extend our trip one more day. That means we have to miss our train from Haridwar 2 days later. That means problems in office.. That means..
All these thoughts were running in my mind and I missed many things he told me. At last when I came back to my senses, he was telling me where the Forest Office was and where I should go to get the permits. We thanked him and went back to the others.
We decided to try our luck with the officer. When we were looking for a way to go to the forest office a Sardarji told us he would take us there for 150/- rupees. We didn't want to bargain more because he looked convincing and he said its the normal charge there. Anyways we were more concerned about the permits. Looking at our gloomy faces he said
"Arey don't worry yaar... agar aap log ko usske bhulava hey tho aap zaroor jaaoge!" (Don't worry friends, if GOD's call is there for you then you'll surely go there!)
Anyways the officer turned out to be a no-nonsense guy and he politely said the 150 permits are over and we'd get the permission to enter only on the next day. After a lot of request and begging he said we could try our luck in Gangotri. If someone who had registered couldn't make it to the trek then we could go in. Atleast we got a small hope and we made the permits anyway. The Sardarji dropped us at the taxi stand and we once again went to the trekking operator to check the sleeping bags.
We got another shock When we heard the rent and the advance amount for 1 sleeping bag. The rent per day was 25 rupees. And the refundable advance was 3000/- only! We decided we'd sleep in the ashram itself instead of camping in the open. We joined the others in the taxi stand and that's where we were waiting for the last 2 hrs waiting for more passengers.
At last 1 sadhu and 1 another guy joined us. Still we were short of 3 or 4 people! Around 4 PM we lost patience and we tried to bargain with the driver. We told him that we would take 1 extra seat and that would make him 7 passengers. But still he was not ready. In the meanwhile the sadhu disappeared (not into thin air like they do in Ramayan and other movies). He said its better to try the bus instead of waiting here. After some time the other guy was also considering the saadhu's option.
Then we told the driver we'd take 1 more ticket! So total 8. (6 tangible and 2 intangible passengers!) The driver said he would take more passengers on the way. We said Ok. We just wanted to start from that place. The driver went to the bus stop for checking for more passengers, gokul and myself ran in the direction where the sadhu went. However we couldn't find him. But when the taxi came back from the bus stop there he was sitting in the front seat!
So by 4:30 we bid farewell to Uttarkashi and started to Gangotri. Now every things going to be fine!
After going a few km the driver kept looking at the back wheel every now and then. He said he thought the back wheel is punctured. Anyways he continued and we thought he would stop it in the next village and change the tyre. We would have gone some 18 km when the front glass burst with a loud noise! Luckily the driver stopped the vehicle safely and we opened our eyes. There was a big hole in the glass and the shattered pieces were everywhere.
At first we didn't know what it was. Then we realized it was a small rock that fell from the hill! We got down and checked the damage. It was serious and and more serious was the tyre! I was a surprise how he drove it this far!
Soon he started to change the tyre and we cleared the glass pieces. Another taxi was coming from the opposite direction and its driver joined to help. Once everything was completed our driver said its impossible to go forward and it was late!
We agreed tough we were not happy. We were supposed to be in Gangotri that night so that we could go to the check post as early as possible and convince the officer there. Also we had to check the availability of sleeping bag, guide and tents!
Anyways what else could we do? It was 7:00 pm when we reached UK once again and we checked for rooms in in a couple of hotels near the taxi stand. The first two were expensive and I was not happy with it. The third one Hotel Bhandara had a 3 bedded room for 550/- rupees. It was neat and clean though not spacious. But it was enough for 4 of us.
Once again after a refreshing bath in cold water (we really miss it in gurgaon these days. The water is always warm there) Varun and me went for a walk in the market. We had golgappas and Tikkis. When coming back, we stopped for 'Bun Tikki' an Indian version of Burger & veg sandwich in a road side stall. Instead of sauce, it had a spicy chutney! We both liked it. Unfortunately it was the last one!
After that we had a nice dinner and went to our hotel and slept hoping everything will be fine from the next day!
My Suggestion:
1. Plan the trip with a group of 6 or 7 (This way you can even hire the whole cab and share the expense)
2. If the strength is less, then the best option is by bus. Catch the first bus from Rishikesh TGMOU bus stand @ 4 AM.
3. It is a good idea to take a break in Uttarkashi (7/8 hrs) the first day. It will give you time to go to the Forest office to get the permits if you are planning to go to Gaumukh/Tapovan/Nandanvan.
4. If you are short of time and if you dont mind the 12-13 hr journey, then you can continue till Gangotri the same day. Just make sure you have made the necessary arragements for the permits in advance.
FAX - 01374-223693
16-5-09
Uttarkashi
It had been almost 2 hrs and we were still waiting for more passengers in Share Taxi; a Tata Sumo in Uttranchal's UttarKashi district. We were 4 and the driver informed us that he needs at least 9 or 10 passengers! Otherwise we could book the whole taxi for Rs 1200/- The bus fare was just 90/- per ticket and being 'Budget Travelers' we opted for the first option. We decided to wait unaware of the surprises or rather bad luck that awaited us for the next 4 days!
It all stared with Shankar's transfer to Chennai. It was all of a sudden and he realized he hasn't seen much of the north! So he wanted to do at least 2 trips before he left to south. We went to Renukaji in Himachal during the first week of May and after that trip we started looking for the next destination. Initially Dharmashala was the popular choice. However in the last moment, I suggested Gangotri! Varun was instantly hooked and we both convinced Shankar.
Due to the absence of many of our 'Brothers in Arms' we were only 3. Rahul had gone home, Prem was busy, Kishore was too busy! Vikas and Amit had other plans. We thought it would be better if we could rope in one more guy. Luckily Gokul was interested and he also joined the gang and we were 4 and good to go!
When we boarded the DDN JANSHTBDI to Haridwar on a friday afternoon, we just had a rough plan. I would rather call it a BAD/POOR plan trip and the price we 'paid' for our laziness was too high! The schedule prepared was as follows:
15th - Reach Haridwar @ night, take a room (near bus / taxi stand) and Rest.
16th - Catch the first share taxi (around 4 AM) and go to Uttarkashi (6-7 hrs). Have Food in UK, From there go to Gangotri (3-4 hrs) in another share taxi. Once in Ggo3, take a room, visit temples and checkout for a guide and the necessary things for the next 2 days. Night Halt in Ggo3.
17th - Early morning we start the trek to Gaumukh via:
Chirbassa - 9 km Bojwassa - 5 km Gaumukh - 5 km. Now there is 2 options: We either come back to Bojwassa, for night halt or go to Tapovan (6 km ahead).
18th - After the sunrise in Tapovan (if we make it to Tapovan on 17th) we start back to Ggo3 and reach Ggo3 @ night.
19th - Catch the share taxi and reach haridwar in the night. Catch the midnight train and reach Delhi in morning!
The expected budget for this trip was supposed to be around 2.5 K per head.
Sounds simple enough.. right? But alas! It wasn't meant to be that simple.
Varun & Shankar in New Delhi Rly Station
When we reached Haridwar at 8:00 pm, we got our first shock. You don't get a share taxi as easily as getting a share auto in the cities. Its your luck or you book a whole taxi for Rs 2600/- (Haridwar to Uttarkashi)
We decided we would first take a room, keep our luggage and then continue with our enquiry. After 10 min we got a decent AC room for 950/- rupees. (We could have found a more cheaper one, but then it was our first day and we badly needed a bath after the HOT train journey!) So we didn't mind the lavishness!
I was the last one to take bath and when I came out of the bathroom, the AC had failed and the owner of the hotel was checking it with a technician. I thought it would be fixed soon, but even after half an hr the repair work was still in progress. We had to go out for the enquiry and dinner. It was already 9:30 pm and I lost patience. I told the manager we will adjust with the cooler. At last he left.
We again asked around for a share taxi but didn't find any. In the end, we decided we will take the bus till UttarKashi and from there we will get a share taxi to Gangotri. After having dinner in the Haridwar Chottiwaala and 'Thandai' from a road side shop for 10 rupees, we retired.
Checking out the room in Haridwar
The next morning by 4:30 am we were up and ready and we came out. Varun and myself were the first one to come out and we took an auto to the bus stand just 1 and half km away. When we got down the driver demanded 30 bucks! After a small argument and cursing the greedy guy I gave him the money. Should I've had paid him 10 or 15 and told him to fuck off? Anyways it was my mistake I didnt ask him the fare in the beginning.We found the first bus to Uttarkashi and Gokul and Shankar soon joined us. We were among the first passengers and we took the comfortable seats and bought the tickets. The bus started at 5:30 AM and I soon forgot the greedy auto incident and thought every things going to be fine from now.
Tea break in Rishikesh TGMOU bus stand
Enroute chamba
Break in Chamba
The bus reached Uttakkashi at 2 PM via Rishikesh, Chamba, Darasu (road divides from here to Gangotri and Yamunotri) and Dunda villages. The hill road was ok except for a few km where the ride was a bit bumpy. On the way, we decided that if no taxi is available then we will continue till Gangotri in the same bus (5 hrs by bus). We had to use the half an hr halt for checking out the taxi, availability of sleeping bags and tent and also for lunch!
AS soon as we reached UK, Shankar and me went to the taxi stand half a km from the bus stop. Taxis were available for 120/- rupees per seat. We saw a trekking operator's office near by and went to check the sleeping bags. He welcomed us and asked, "have you made the permits?"
"Permits..??? What permits???"
It was a real shock to me when I heard from him that we need to acquire permits for trekking from Gangotri to Gaumukh! I thought none of the blogs or sites informed me about this (Actually it was mentioned in many sites.. but we didn't see it)
He told me that everyday only 150 person will be allowed inside, thanks to all of us idiots who are causing global warming and doing harm to the earth and environment each day! He also informed me that the 150 permits for the next day is already over and we will get it only for next day! That means we have to extend our trip one more day. That means we have to miss our train from Haridwar 2 days later. That means problems in office.. That means..
All these thoughts were running in my mind and I missed many things he told me. At last when I came back to my senses, he was telling me where the Forest Office was and where I should go to get the permits. We thanked him and went back to the others.
We decided to try our luck with the officer. When we were looking for a way to go to the forest office a Sardarji told us he would take us there for 150/- rupees. We didn't want to bargain more because he looked convincing and he said its the normal charge there. Anyways we were more concerned about the permits. Looking at our gloomy faces he said
"Arey don't worry yaar... agar aap log ko usske bhulava hey tho aap zaroor jaaoge!" (Don't worry friends, if GOD's call is there for you then you'll surely go there!)
Anyways the officer turned out to be a no-nonsense guy and he politely said the 150 permits are over and we'd get the permission to enter only on the next day. After a lot of request and begging he said we could try our luck in Gangotri. If someone who had registered couldn't make it to the trek then we could go in. Atleast we got a small hope and we made the permits anyway. The Sardarji dropped us at the taxi stand and we once again went to the trekking operator to check the sleeping bags.
We got another shock When we heard the rent and the advance amount for 1 sleeping bag. The rent per day was 25 rupees. And the refundable advance was 3000/- only! We decided we'd sleep in the ashram itself instead of camping in the open. We joined the others in the taxi stand and that's where we were waiting for the last 2 hrs waiting for more passengers.
At last 1 sadhu and 1 another guy joined us. Still we were short of 3 or 4 people! Around 4 PM we lost patience and we tried to bargain with the driver. We told him that we would take 1 extra seat and that would make him 7 passengers. But still he was not ready. In the meanwhile the sadhu disappeared (not into thin air like they do in Ramayan and other movies). He said its better to try the bus instead of waiting here. After some time the other guy was also considering the saadhu's option.
Then we told the driver we'd take 1 more ticket! So total 8. (6 tangible and 2 intangible passengers!) The driver said he would take more passengers on the way. We said Ok. We just wanted to start from that place. The driver went to the bus stop for checking for more passengers, gokul and myself ran in the direction where the sadhu went. However we couldn't find him. But when the taxi came back from the bus stop there he was sitting in the front seat!
So by 4:30 we bid farewell to Uttarkashi and started to Gangotri. Now every things going to be fine!
After going a few km the driver kept looking at the back wheel every now and then. He said he thought the back wheel is punctured. Anyways he continued and we thought he would stop it in the next village and change the tyre. We would have gone some 18 km when the front glass burst with a loud noise! Luckily the driver stopped the vehicle safely and we opened our eyes. There was a big hole in the glass and the shattered pieces were everywhere.
At first we didn't know what it was. Then we realized it was a small rock that fell from the hill! We got down and checked the damage. It was serious and and more serious was the tyre! I was a surprise how he drove it this far!
Soon he started to change the tyre and we cleared the glass pieces. Another taxi was coming from the opposite direction and its driver joined to help. Once everything was completed our driver said its impossible to go forward and it was late!
We agreed tough we were not happy. We were supposed to be in Gangotri that night so that we could go to the check post as early as possible and convince the officer there. Also we had to check the availability of sleeping bag, guide and tents!
View through the broken glass
Once again after a refreshing bath in cold water (we really miss it in gurgaon these days. The water is always warm there) Varun and me went for a walk in the market. We had golgappas and Tikkis. When coming back, we stopped for 'Bun Tikki' an Indian version of Burger & veg sandwich in a road side stall. Instead of sauce, it had a spicy chutney! We both liked it. Unfortunately it was the last one!
After that we had a nice dinner and went to our hotel and slept hoping everything will be fine from the next day!
My Suggestion:
1. Plan the trip with a group of 6 or 7 (This way you can even hire the whole cab and share the expense)
2. If the strength is less, then the best option is by bus. Catch the first bus from Rishikesh TGMOU bus stand @ 4 AM.
3. It is a good idea to take a break in Uttarkashi (7/8 hrs) the first day. It will give you time to go to the Forest office to get the permits if you are planning to go to Gaumukh/Tapovan/Nandanvan.
4. If you are short of time and if you dont mind the 12-13 hr journey, then you can continue till Gangotri the same day. Just make sure you have made the necessary arragements for the permits in advance.
FAX - 01374-223693
Thanks for the valuable information.Pl. don't hesitate to write the next one.
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