Leh Ahoy!
Day 2
10-8-08
Jispa
When you go on a trip, you fall into any one of the two categories:
1. Someone who doesn't mind waking up first... getting ready quickly... and starting the day's journey as early as possible. If there is already a good schedule charted out, then they try to stick to it. The main idea of these people is to see and experience the local sights and sounds as much as possible. It doesn't mean they do the entire trip in a hurried manner, missing to enjoy the place and its significance. The only thing, throughout the entire trip, that they want to do as early as possible is - 'the starting part each day'! Because if you start late, it affects the entire day's plan. This is what goes in their minds.
2. Someone who wants to enjoy the trip completely; in every sense. They will be the last one to get up in the morning.. and the last one to get ready! "We are on VACATION damn' it! So we need to enjoy it as leisurely as possible!! We don't have a flight to catch (well, actually in some trips.. you do!) or conference to attend... So just chill out... n enjoy!!!" Some of this kind try to make-up for the delayed start by driving fast (if they are on the wheel). But some, continue the same pace throughout the day... and the entire trip!
Whatever it is... they too have a point! Don't they??
Anyways... I think I belong to the first category. So at 4:30 AM I was up. After the 'brushing-wrushing' and the more 'priority 1' chores, I started waking up others. By 5:30 AM we all were ready and meanwhile, Sanjay was busy warming up the engine! It was too cold outside and he said it will take 5-10 minutes to start! We decided to utilize the time for our taking a few snaps.
It was 6:00 AM when the car finally decided to start. We paid the caretaker 525/- thanked him and started that day's journey. Out of 473 km from Manali to Leh, we had only covered some 135 km the previous day. So today we HAD to cover the remaining distance (something around 338.. and that too through some of the highest passes in the world!) We knew it was going to be a difficult day but at the same time we were looking forward to see the awesome landscape that lay ahead!
Until the previous evening, the mountains around us were green everywhere. But today it was entirely different. Trees were very less or seen only on the road sides (if at all they were there) The mountains were just rocky with small scrubs here and there. In one day the landscape had changed so much and more was yet to come!
By 7:30 AM, our tummies began demanding fuel and our limbs needed a stretch. Luckily a few min later tents were visible and we stopped for breakfast, photography, peeing, stretching etc etc.
I've read somewhere that these tents were actually made from the parachute cloth which the Air force helicopters use to drop food or other things in case of emergencies! Anyways these tents were large enough to accommodate 5 or 6 beds, and a small kitchen. They charge Rs 100/- per bed and blankets and I think it'll be an thrilling experience to stay a night over there! You will be having the company of stars (and sometimes moon) sheep, yaks and if lucky... even a mountain leopard!
We continued the journey and about 2 hrs later we reached Serchu, our actual destination the previous night. Sarchu (or Serchu) is Himachal Pradesh, Jammu Kashmir border and you can see a lot of Swiss tents and check post where you need to submit your vehicle, driver and passenger details. While going to Leh, the first tent was the 'Blue Poppy' in which Vishal had booked our night halt and food. Since the earlier stop was just a small trailer, we decided to check if somethings available in Blue Poppy. The cook cum caretaker of the tents was a nice person and he welcomed us and asked why we didnt come the previous night. He was happy to see us and started to prepare our breakfast. In the meanwhile we started to enjoy the landscape.
After having hot Parattas with butter, pickle and tea we thanked the caretaker continued the journey at 10:15. Before leaving he informed us that if we could come early in the evening on our way back, he would take us for fishing!!! I tell you.. he really is a nice person!
Every traveller who has taken the Road to Ladakh will have atleast one story to tell about the long hours waiting due to road block. Due to the extreme climates the roads here are hard to maintain and needs constant repair so that people like us can enjoy the journey. Anyways.. at one place, we also got our share of waiting very soon. A bridge was being repaired and it took almot 50 min to complete it (50 min is for us.. A lot of other vehiches were waiting for almost 2 to 2 n half hrs!
Its 2:16 PM and still 183 km to LEH!
It 3:00 and we were getting late. We still had around 100+ km to cover! Soon it started to drizzle a bit. I had read that rainfall was very rare in this high altitude cold desert. But today we were forced to sit inside the car with the glass raised!
Blaming it on the climate change and global warming, we carried on. After the More Plains. it was the toughest ascend and everyone started feeling uneasy inside the car. We had to go up till Tanglung La and after that its descending. The worst part is you see the Tanglung La top from a distance and still you have to travel 1 and half hrs to reach the top. Its because you actually have to cross 3 hills to reach there!
By the time we reached Tanglang La, it was too misty outside. Also the altitude sickness started affecting everyone especially myself and Sanjay. Also oxygen deficiency at such high altitude mdae things worse. To make things even worse, we were having no water to drink! So we didnt even think of stopping there.
Once we started descending, things became a bit ok.Finaly when we reached Upshi village we had gone through the worst part and were happy to get a bottle of mineral water! It was getting dark and we still had 50 more kilometers to Leh. The next village was Karu 35 km before Leh. From there thankfully we had no more ascending or descending. We were on the plains once again. When we were just 10 kms from Leh, we called Vishal and got the telephone number of the Hotel where he had book our rooms. The caretaker told us that he will meet us near the Leh taxi stand and gave us his identification.
Since it was dark outside from a long distance itself we could make out the Leh city with lot of lights. At last we did it! we did it!! We reached Leh!!! We were so happy that i forgot my sickness and tiredness. We met the manager of our hotel in the taxi stand and he showed us the way to his hotel, where our first priority was to freshen up and then have a good dinner and later a good night sleep. Hot water was available in half an hr and by the time dinner was ready, everyone had forgotten about the altitude sickness or head ache that we had during the trip.
10-8-08
Jispa
When you go on a trip, you fall into any one of the two categories:
1. Someone who doesn't mind waking up first... getting ready quickly... and starting the day's journey as early as possible. If there is already a good schedule charted out, then they try to stick to it. The main idea of these people is to see and experience the local sights and sounds as much as possible. It doesn't mean they do the entire trip in a hurried manner, missing to enjoy the place and its significance. The only thing, throughout the entire trip, that they want to do as early as possible is - 'the starting part each day'! Because if you start late, it affects the entire day's plan. This is what goes in their minds.
2. Someone who wants to enjoy the trip completely; in every sense. They will be the last one to get up in the morning.. and the last one to get ready! "We are on VACATION damn' it! So we need to enjoy it as leisurely as possible!! We don't have a flight to catch (well, actually in some trips.. you do!) or conference to attend... So just chill out... n enjoy!!!" Some of this kind try to make-up for the delayed start by driving fast (if they are on the wheel). But some, continue the same pace throughout the day... and the entire trip!
Whatever it is... they too have a point! Don't they??
Anyways... I think I belong to the first category. So at 4:30 AM I was up. After the 'brushing-wrushing' and the more 'priority 1' chores, I started waking up others. By 5:30 AM we all were ready and meanwhile, Sanjay was busy warming up the engine! It was too cold outside and he said it will take 5-10 minutes to start! We decided to utilize the time for our taking a few snaps.
It was 6:00 AM when the car finally decided to start. We paid the caretaker 525/- thanked him and started that day's journey. Out of 473 km from Manali to Leh, we had only covered some 135 km the previous day. So today we HAD to cover the remaining distance (something around 338.. and that too through some of the highest passes in the world!) We knew it was going to be a difficult day but at the same time we were looking forward to see the awesome landscape that lay ahead!
Until the previous evening, the mountains around us were green everywhere. But today it was entirely different. Trees were very less or seen only on the road sides (if at all they were there) The mountains were just rocky with small scrubs here and there. In one day the landscape had changed so much and more was yet to come!
By 7:30 AM, our tummies began demanding fuel and our limbs needed a stretch. Luckily a few min later tents were visible and we stopped for breakfast, photography, peeing, stretching etc etc.
I've read somewhere that these tents were actually made from the parachute cloth which the Air force helicopters use to drop food or other things in case of emergencies! Anyways these tents were large enough to accommodate 5 or 6 beds, and a small kitchen. They charge Rs 100/- per bed and blankets and I think it'll be an thrilling experience to stay a night over there! You will be having the company of stars (and sometimes moon) sheep, yaks and if lucky... even a mountain leopard!
We continued the journey and about 2 hrs later we reached Serchu, our actual destination the previous night. Sarchu (or Serchu) is Himachal Pradesh, Jammu Kashmir border and you can see a lot of Swiss tents and check post where you need to submit your vehicle, driver and passenger details. While going to Leh, the first tent was the 'Blue Poppy' in which Vishal had booked our night halt and food. Since the earlier stop was just a small trailer, we decided to check if somethings available in Blue Poppy. The cook cum caretaker of the tents was a nice person and he welcomed us and asked why we didnt come the previous night. He was happy to see us and started to prepare our breakfast. In the meanwhile we started to enjoy the landscape.
We also checked out the tents. To get into the tent you need to unzip 2 layers of the tent and they were sufficient to protect you from the cold wind in the night. It pretty comfortable for 2 persons with thick blankets and quilts. Since electricity was out of question, they had this battery charged night lamps.
After having hot Parattas with butter, pickle and tea we thanked the caretaker continued the journey at 10:15. Before leaving he informed us that if we could come early in the evening on our way back, he would take us for fishing!!! I tell you.. he really is a nice person!
Every traveller who has taken the Road to Ladakh will have atleast one story to tell about the long hours waiting due to road block. Due to the extreme climates the roads here are hard to maintain and needs constant repair so that people like us can enjoy the journey. Anyways.. at one place, we also got our share of waiting very soon. A bridge was being repaired and it took almot 50 min to complete it (50 min is for us.. A lot of other vehiches were waiting for almost 2 to 2 n half hrs!
Varun... on the edge!
Atlast at 12:30 when the repair work was finally over they allowed us to pass one vehicle at a time. Cheering them for their hard work we moved on.
Each place that we passed through had something to show off and we watched everything in awe. The barren mountains, the long stretch of straight roads, (even lack of roads in places) the view of hairpin bends from the top, view of the valley and the entire horizon, small streams, the deep gorges and the river.. everything was a novel experience to us.
Every now and then milestones announced the approach of a village or an Army base. At some places we had to give the details. We saluted the soldiers for their courage and sacrifice and they too gave friendly smiles waves and at times saluted back. Maybe they would have thought that we deserved it for coming on this incredible journey!
Trees and schrubs were long gone and it was just the barren mountains and blue sky.. and us! Around 2:25 PM, some 8 km before a place called 'Pang', we had to cross a stream. The road was washed away and it was a bit risky (not for lives, but for the car!) Big stones under water were visble so Sanjay had to drive carefully. Anyways it was a thrilling experience..
Its 2:16 PM and still 183 km to LEH!
After spending a few min in Kangala Jal (where we crossed the stream) and near the strange arch like formation, we reached Pang. Added our stock of water bottles and continued. The journey and the landscape was similar however we never got bored watching it. Soon we reached Morey (More) Plains, a stretch of almost 40-45 km plain. This is where you have the freedom to go anywhere... you never get lost in the plain. Just keep going forward and you will finally end up on the road! But you need to be a bit careful, otherwise you will end up like the truck below!
Blaming it on the climate change and global warming, we carried on. After the More Plains. it was the toughest ascend and everyone started feeling uneasy inside the car. We had to go up till Tanglung La and after that its descending. The worst part is you see the Tanglung La top from a distance and still you have to travel 1 and half hrs to reach the top. Its because you actually have to cross 3 hills to reach there!
By the time we reached Tanglang La, it was too misty outside. Also the altitude sickness started affecting everyone especially myself and Sanjay. Also oxygen deficiency at such high altitude mdae things worse. To make things even worse, we were having no water to drink! So we didnt even think of stopping there.
Once we started descending, things became a bit ok.Finaly when we reached Upshi village we had gone through the worst part and were happy to get a bottle of mineral water! It was getting dark and we still had 50 more kilometers to Leh. The next village was Karu 35 km before Leh. From there thankfully we had no more ascending or descending. We were on the plains once again. When we were just 10 kms from Leh, we called Vishal and got the telephone number of the Hotel where he had book our rooms. The caretaker told us that he will meet us near the Leh taxi stand and gave us his identification.
Since it was dark outside from a long distance itself we could make out the Leh city with lot of lights. At last we did it! we did it!! We reached Leh!!! We were so happy that i forgot my sickness and tiredness. We met the manager of our hotel in the taxi stand and he showed us the way to his hotel, where our first priority was to freshen up and then have a good dinner and later a good night sleep. Hot water was available in half an hr and by the time dinner was ready, everyone had forgotten about the altitude sickness or head ache that we had during the trip.
Earlier...
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